Seaweed in Cosmetics

In this post I’m going to talk about the growing interest in seaweeds for use in cosmetic products, cosmeceutics, and nutricosmetics.

A recent review highlighted the increasing interest in seaweeds due to their renewable nature, wide distribution, and the richness of their bioactive compounds.

These bioactive compounds include polyphenols, polysaccharides, proteins, peptides, amino acids, lipids, vitamins, and minerals, which are beneficial for skin care products. The full article can be read here.

Key Advantages of Seaweeds

• Renewable and Widely Available: Seaweeds are a sustainable resource that can be harvested without depleting natural ecosystems.

• Rich Bioactive Compounds: Seaweeds contain a variety of beneficial compounds that can act as ingredients, additives, and active agents in cosmetic formulations.

• Technical Features: Seaweed fractions can offer thickening, gelling, emulsifying, texturizing, and moistening properties, making them versatile in product formulations.

• Valorization of Waste: Industrial waste streams and algal blooms can be valorized, providing a low-cost and renewable raw material.

Components and Bioactivity of Seaweeds

The review provides an updated summary of the activities of different seaweed compounds and fractions based on scientific and patent literature.

Polysaccharides

Polysaccharides in seaweeds form part of their cell walls and are specific to each type of algae. They are receiving increasing attention for their biofunctional and physicochemical characteristics. Examples include:

• Alginate: Found in brown seaweeds, used as a thickening and gelling agent.

• Carrageenans: From red seaweeds, known for their antioxidant, antitumor, and anti-aging properties.

• Fucoidans: Found in various seaweeds, they offer photoaging inhibition, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory properties.

  
  

Proteins, Peptides, and Amino Acids

Seaweeds are a rich source of proteins and bioactive peptides, which have health benefits and high antioxidant properties. Examples include:

• Mycosporine-like Amino Acids (MAAs): Known for their UV-protective and antioxidant properties.

• Bioactive Peptides: Exhibiting anti-inflammatory, anti-aging, and skin-protective effects.

Phenolics and Terpenoids

Phenolic compounds in seaweeds are synthesized as part of their defense mechanisms and have antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and skin-protective properties. Examples include:

• Phlorotannins: Known for their antioxidative and anti-allergic activities.

• Meroterpenoids: Exhibiting antioxidant properties and preventing skin photoaging.

  
  

Lipids

Seaweeds contain highly unsaturated lipids with beneficial properties. Examples include:

• Fucosterol: Found in brown algae, has antioxidant and anti-photodamage effects.

• Polyunsaturated Fatty Acids (PUFA): Beneficial for skin barrier protection and inflammatory response regulation.

Vitamins

Seaweeds are a source of various vitamins essential for skin health. Examples include:

• Vitamin C: Known for its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and skin-brightening properties.

• Vitamin E: Effective against UV damage and photoaging.

Minerals

Seaweeds have a high mineral content, which plays important roles in skin functions. Examples include:

• Calcium, Magnesium, Potassium: Essential for skin health and hydration.

Technological and Bioactive Functions

Seaweed components can be used as functional ingredients to improve texture, color, and stability of cosmetics, as well as bioactive agents conferring various beneficial actions.

Moisturization

Seaweed extracts rich in polysaccharides are effective in maintaining skin hydration, elasticity, and barrier function.

Skin Whitening

Certain seaweed components are active tyrosinase inhibitors, making them effective for skin whitening and pigmentation reduction.

UV Protection, Antioxidant, and Antiaging

Bioactive compounds from seaweeds prevent UV-induced oxidative stress and inhibit the expression of matrix metalloproteinases, thus protecting against photoaging and promoting skin health.

Patents and Commercial Applications

Seaweeds and their components have been claimed in numerous patents for their functional, sensorial, and biological properties in cosmetics, cosmeceuticals, and nutricosmetics. Examples include:

• Anti-aging and Antistress: Patented formulations using seaweed extracts for anti-aging and stress-relief properties.

• Moisturizing: Seaweed components used in formulations to enhance skin hydration.

• UV Protection and Antioxidant: Patents claiming the use of seaweed extracts for their antioxidant and UV-protective properties.

Conclusion

Seaweeds offer a valuable source of bioactive compounds for the formulation of cosmetics, cosmeceuticals, and nutricosmetics. Their renewable nature and wide range of beneficial properties make them an attractive ingredient for the industry. Future research should focus on greener extraction methods, stabilization, and delivery of seaweed bioactives in novel products.

Stay tuned for more posts on the potential of natural ingredients in the cosmetic industry and their benefits for skin health.